When I hear the words “capsule wardrobe” I think beige and black basics in sleek, timeless shapes that are entirely functional, but maybe a bit … boring. If you’re a maximalist magpie like me, a lover of colour, pattern and a “more is more” aesthetic, you probably think capsule wardrobes aren’t for you. I certainly did.
When I moved to London from Sydney last year, I took just one suitcase, which I lived from until the rest of my belongings (and wardrobe) arrived, almost six months later. Not wanting to shop for more clothes with plenty on the way, I learnt to get the most out of my streamlined wardrobe. I realised that capsule wardrobes don’t have to mean basic, minimal or even neutral; it’s simply about getting maximum looks with minimal purchases.
One of my most-worn, most-loved pieces during that time was an ankle-skimming floral dress with puffed sleeves and shirred detailing. It’s not exactly what springs to mind when you think “capsule”, but it was a piece I reached for almost every week. I wore it with boots and trainers, over a skivvy when I first arrived in winter and on its own with sandals when the weather turned.
Dressing sustainably doesn’t have to mean 50 shades of beige. If you’re a lover of colour, your wardrobe should reflect that. It’s simply about hardworking pieces that can be loved all year round in almost every setting.
Start with a few good basics
I know I promised everything but basic, but every wardrobe needs a few key items that can be paired with more “out there”, trend-led pieces. Think of these as the building blocks of your wardrobe; they’re a great starting point on which to build any outfit and they tie everything together.
If you regularly open your wardrobe and think you have nothing to wear despite shopping often, you’re probably missing these key pieces. Without them, you’ll feel like you’re drowning in a pile of stuff.
– A pair of great-fitting blue jeans to wear with, well, everything.
– A slightly oversized blazer in a neutral colour (I love grey) to layer over t-shirts and jeans, pants and dresses.
– A pair of dark tailored pants (wool for cooler climates, linen for warmer) that can be worn with t-shirts and sneakers for a casual look, heels and a slinky top for “going out” and paired with a blazer for a smarter corporate look.
– A classic white collared shirt: Over a bikini at the beach, tucked into jeans, tied at the waist over a slip dress, under jumpers in the winter (and at least 100 other ways).
– A leather or denim jacket. I prefer leather because it can be both smart and casual and is better suited to cooler weather when you most need a jacket.
– A quality white t-shirt. I had a collection of brightly coloured, patterned pants that I loved but hardly wore. I bought myself a couple of great-fitting, cotton white t-shirts and suddenly those pants became my most reached-for item. Capsule? Yes. Boring? Absolutely not.
– A pair of trainers that go with everything. I love Converse Chuck Taylors for this; they look great with dresses, jeans and pants and they’re a slightly smarter option for office environments too. Plus, you can throw them into the washing machine to keep them looking fresh.
– A pair of ankle-length black boots. If you only have two pairs of shoes in your wardrobe (other than beach shoes), make them a pair of sneakers and an ankle boot with a small heel — there’s nothing more versatile.
Find pieces that can be styled year round
I have something of a fetish for a good summer dress. When the weather warms, I’m the first to shove my jeans to the back of my wardrobe and embrace the floaty, ankle-skimming dress. A more comfortable piece does not exist. But these “summer” dresses only service my wardrobe for half the year (much less now I live in London).
The answer is buying dresses that can be styled all year round. Think underneath an oversized jumper with a cross-body bag for shape, or under a blazer or cropped V-neck cardigan paired with socks and loafers. I also love a skivvy for layering under slip dresses. If you find layering a jumper over your dress looks shapeless, use a waist belt to tuck the length of the jumper in, and then pull it out and fold over so the belt is hidden.
Obviously, some pieces are seasonal, such as swimwear and jumpers, but 75 per cent of your wardrobe should work for most of the year. If you invest in pieces that you can respin, rework and revamp each season, you’ll never not have anything to wear.
Do wardrobe maths
Focus on what your wardrobe needs rather than what your eye is drawn to. I’m a real sucker for adding anything bright, bold and “girly” to my cart, but I’ve learnt to consider just how often I will wear something before I buy. Do I really need another prairie-style dress? No, I don’t.
Think in terms of cost per wear and how many different outfits you can make with one piece. If you can’t imagine at least three different outfits and several occasions where you will wear it, it’s not worth buying.
Buy for your lifestyle, too. If you work a corporate job where smart garb is required, smart garb is what you need to buy! If you’re a busy mum with a schedule of nursery drop-offs and after-school activities, you probably don’t need a wardrobe of gowns and heels. Smart garb doesn’t need to be boring, and nor do casual, comfy clothes; think about your lifestyle and then find pieces that make you feel good. I spend a lot of time working from home and looking after my toddler, but I also don’t love sweatpants (unpopular as that might be). For me, comfortable, at-home clothing looks like leggings with an oversized shirt or jumper, or a pair of knit wide-leg pants with a t-shirt.
If you fall totally in love with a piece but know you will only wear it once or twice, perhaps for a special occasion, see if you can rent it first. The rental market has grown exponentially in the last few years and offers a more sustainable way to wear new clothes. If you can’t rent it, but you still want to buy it, find a platform where you can rent it out to others afterwards so you can recoup some of the money.
It’s always better to invest in the staple pieces I mentioned above, because those are the pieces you will reach for time and time again. They need to stand up against plenty of wear and washing.
Choose quality fabrics
Buying less also means buying better. Choose quality fabrics that will stand up to plenty of wear and won’t bobble, fray or unravel in a short space of time. Online shopping is so convenient, but I really recommend going into a store to feel the fabrics and try things on, especially when you’re shopping for your “basics”.
Keep in mind what feels good against your skin too. A wool jumper might be hardwearing, but if it’s itchy and you never reach for it, it’s no good. In the chilly London weather, I’ve become very smitten with cashmere. It’s a more expensive option, but it’s worth it because I love the feel of it, so I reach for it on cold mornings. The same goes for temperature-regulating linen and cotton during the summer — nobody wants sweaty, polyester pits.
Often, natural materials such as silk and cashmere require extra care, but looked after properly, they should last years.
If you’re not wearing it, sell it!
I know, I just know you have a neglected corner of the wardrobe or a pile of clothes you don’t wear … and you likely already know you can sell them. Well, this is your sign to do it! Use the money and the advice above to buy things you will really love and cherish.
Charlie Hale is an English-born journalist who writes about a plethora of things women care about, from pasta to politics and everything between.
