Sensational Solomon Islands

Islands unlimited

The reason we’re here, though, is to revel in the beauty of the islands. It’s a daunting choice. We’re seeking a traditional, unspoiled island fantasy, where we can indulge our passion for diving and snorkelling. While there’s an abundance of lagoons that provide just that, we base ourselves near Gizo, a region famed for its underwater wonders.

Happily, flights into Honiara usually arrive in time to connect with flights to the outer island, which makes it possible to be floating over sublime coral come late afternoon. From a Twin Otter, the visuals en route to Gizo verge on cinematic. I stare straight into craters, then gasp at crystalline lagoons and extravagantly sculpted sounds laced by a necklace of islets.

Schools of trevally shoot beneath the jetty as we make our way to our accommodation on lushly tropical Mbabanga Island, a short boat ride from Gizo. Our bungalow — fashioned from hardwood, palm-leaf and cane — is hugged tight by huge, ancient trees whose horizontal trunks reach out over the water. From our deck, we look down on schools of fish and clam shells washed onto our private little beach. The looming Kolombangara volcano overlooks our every move. We slide into the silky water, hoping to spot one of the dugongs that regularly graze the seagrasses. Instead, we’re treated to a garden of hard and soft corals and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish.

The bungalows are a tactile treat and the setting is sublime, but what really makes this haven so soulful is the warmth and homeliness. I’m soothed by two contented dogs and, within a very short time, the staff anticipate our quirks: a pot of strong coffee in the morning, meals that are spicy and hearty. A maximum of 10 guests ensures you meet like-minded people but never feel like you’re part of a throng. Each evening, the slow, sensuous lap of the still ocean lulls us to sleep. We awake to kingfishers in the garden and crab prints on our beach.

Gizo’s cultural and natural attractions lie a short boat ride away. At Gizo’s market, islanders arrive by dugout canoes. We visit villages where a cone shell is sounded to announce our presence. Between islands, we’re privy to the secret lives of seabirds hitching a ride on coconut shells or swooping seawards in a chaotic feeding frenzy. Much of our time here, however, is spent relishing Gizo’s underwater magic. It’s not for nothing that this lagoon is the stuff of legend among divers. But, happily, it’s not just about diving. This region, like so many of the lagoons in the Solomons, has many marine marvels that lie within snorkelling depth.

There are countless seductively empty islands to explore — above and below the water — and each site is unique. One morning, heading out to snorkel over the Toa Maru warship’s eerie hulk, we wave back at a procession of school children threading their way through coconut groves. Snorkelling is one of life’s most gripping diversions: every time you put your head underwater it’s a given that you’ll encounter something new and wondrous. Each centimetre is crammed with texture, compelling colour combinations and shapes that challenge the rules of geometry. I’m captivated by hundreds of incandescent purple fish, huge sprawls of plate coral, startlingly electric-blue characters, willowy angel fish and anemones that change hue before my eyes.

It’s the ultimate antidote to attention deficit disorder. Unfathomable and festooned with layer upon layer of intrigue, reefs are the ultimate way to lose yourself; the more you look, the more fascinating they become. And, just as I soon learned to find wonder in even the tiniest nook of a reef, I inevitably slipped into the “let’s be happy with what’s in front of us” attitude of the islanders. And that, surely, is the mark of a great escape.